100 Countries Together

Country number 81, Oman, started with an exciting entrance. Here’s Eric looking very serious before he was to jump off a cliff, paraglide, and land at Zighy Bay Resort.

This is the cliff from which we jumped (the site was appropriately called “Cliff’s Edge). We had about five minutes of time aloft with our Bulgarian co-pilot. It was a lot of fun after you get over that initial leap. I’ll post some videos when we get home.

Now we are relaxing pool side, looking up at the cliffs from the beach.

You can experience a little bit of everything in Bahrain. From shopping in the souks….

….To taking in the beautiful architecture and tile work of the mosques…,

…To walking the Pearl Trail and seeing how the merchants and captains lived and worked.

The young lady who worked at this site along the Pearl Trail said this was once her grandfather’s home and place of business.

Bahrain is not without their modern wonders either. Not sure if you can see that well, but in a country with huge oil deposits, those are actually wind turbines between the towers of their world financial center.

Over a year ago, we had the opportunity to enjoy a meal at Niko Romito’s Michelin 3 Star restaurant, Reale, in Castel de Sangro, Italy. We were quite pleased to find he had an outpost at the Bulgari Resort here in Dubai!

I still need to work on my food photography skills, but pictured is the VERY tasty Tortellini di scampi con asparagus.

The entire meal and wine pairings was outstanding, as was all the attention we received from the entire staff, including the vibrant young chef, Giacomo Amicucci.

For those Reale fans out there, however, be forewarned. Il Ristorante couldn’t be more different. The white walls of the converted convent of Reale, versus the black marble and dark of Il Ristorante, as well as their lively bar scene. Unexpected, but still grand and delightful.


After all our many travels, Eric & I believe that we have passed the most time at Dwarika’s Hotel in Kathmandu. It has a fascinating story and is worth of its own post.

Back in the 50’s, the founder, Das Dwarika, starting collecting pieces of Newari carvings that were to be destroyed to make way for newer concrete buildings.

His collection grew, and eventually he incorporated multiple of the pieces into the current hotel.

Today, the hotel continues to support various restoration and conservation efforts for Newari crafts. The hotel houses one of the largest wood collections in the world.

There are also multiple examples of terra cotta work around the hotel.

We leave tonight for Dubai, and have to bid farewell to Dwarika once again.

After all our many travels, Eric & I believe that we have passed to most time at Dwarika’s Hotel in Kathmandu. It has a fascinating story and is worth of its own post.

Back in the 50’s, the founder, Das Dwarika, starting collecting pieces of Newari carvings that were ro g destroyed to make way for newer concrete buildings.

His collection grew, and eventually he incorporated multiple of the pieces into the current hotel.

Today, the hotel continues to support various restoration and conservation efforts for Newari crafts. The hotel houses one of the largest wood collections in the world.

There are also multiple examples of terra cotta work around the hotel.

We leave tonight for Dubai, and have to bid farewell to Dwarika once again.

Ok, we had a great view of Everest ( barely discernible in this photo) and fresh snow when we woke up. I have to say, in summary, that the temperatures this time around have been at least 10 degrees warmer (i.e. no changing clothes in our sleeping bags). But there is absolutely no nice way to say this – Goreksep is a shit hole. I won’t post the pictures. TRY to find a Western style toilet in this village – and most likely – everyone else who struggles with a drop toilet has already found it. And if you find it too late the pipes have frozen and everything is backed up. I’ll stop here, but if you want stories of Eric’s and my acrobatics with a drop toilet – call us!

And, since no one asks you if you got down from Everest Base Camp, we decided a helicopter ride back to Kathmandu was the best alternative to another 4-6 days hiking. Fantastic! The countryside is really beautiful. I believe Goreksep is less than 100 miles from Kathmandu as the crow flies. I’ll post some videos when I get home.

We are now back ensconced in the stately Dwarika Hotel in Kathmandu. Showered, shaved, fed (something other than lentils) and libated, it’s great to be back at lower elevations.

All in all, I would have to say the trip was easier on us this time around (I think it had to do a lot with the temperature). We met people from 53 different countries and 15 States. Last time we said, “Never Again!”, but I think this time we will stick to that resolution.

What fun! We were the first guests at Oxygen Altitude Lodge in Lobuche four years ago. We were the only guests at dinner and the only guests at the hotel. What a different atmosphere greeted us this time around! We met the owner’s son who greeted us and offered us wine (which even I turned down-I’m making Base Camp), we ate dinner with a large Romanian group – all fun.

Headed out early toward Goreksep (the village where everyone stages their trek to Base Camp and Kala Patter). All good on the ascent.  Truly, Everest from our angle looks unimpressive compared to the other peaks ( Everest is in the center with what looks like snow blowing off of it to the left).

We finally made it. The route was very crowded compared to last time. We heard and saw a few avalanches coming off the mountains. The last group camping at Base Camp attempting to summit broke camp three days earlier, so we had no groups to talk to.

But, just to summarize, WE MADE IT!!!!

The day started early and overcast and perhaps our toughest day as it was the shortest distance and highest altitude increase. However, the scenery more than made up for any of our difficulties.

When we get home, I am going to need a Himalayan expert to help me identify all these mountains.

Everest was still hiding from us today, but we are hopeful for good weather tomorrow when we attempt Base Camp.

Not only are the mountains beautiful, but watching the clouds roll in and out revealing the different peaks is mesmerizing.

These two shouldn’t go without accolades. Chhongba and Mingma are our guides. They have been responsible for our success so far, and continue to be supportive and encouraging all the way. Thanks guys!

There doesn’t seem to be enough band width here to post photos, will update from Kathmandu tomorrow!

Today we rest in Dingboche before we gain 2100 feet in altitude tomorrow. I started diamox this morning – Eric is still doing fine without it. Overnight was not as cold as I expected – thanks primarily to an amazing hot water bottle and hand warmers in my socks.

The town is filled with lots of trekkers lodges which seems to be the main industry.

The other industry is refining crude. The crude in this case is yak dung. They heat with it, cook with it, etc. (There is solar too).

And amazingly enough, there are several outstanding bakeries in town. Apple pie, Black Forest cake, donuts, cookies, etc., you name it. The bakery we have decided to hole up in even shows movies each afternoon. Yesterday it was “Everest”, today it’s “Sherpa.”